Koh Ngai wasn’t the first island on our radar when we started traveling through Thailand almost a decade ago. Phuket, Koh Phi Phi and Koh Samui topped our list in the early days. But recently we heard some amazing things about Koh Ngai from other travelers, like how dreamy it was for couples, so we decided to give it a go. And what a decision that turned out to be! In our opinion, Koh Ngai is the most beautiful island in all of Thailand, with towering palm trees, crystal-clear water and incredible views. Yes it’s very small, but it has everything you could ever want in a beach holiday destination.

Koh Ngai is located in the south, off the Andaman Coast, and is part of the Trang archipelago which also includes Koh Mook, Koh Kradan and sometimes grouped with Koh Lipe. It’s without doubt one of Thailand’s best islands and the perfect getaway if you want to enjoy a spectacular beach right on your resort’s doorstep. We visited Koh Ngai in February and choose Thapwarin Resort for our four night stay. All the resorts line the main beach and are backed by jungle. Thapwarin is a place we highly recommend, not because it’s defined by luxury but because of it’s character and setting.

Koh Ngai - Longtail Boat — *High tide at Thapwarin Resort*

Overview of Koh Ngai

Koh Ngai is officially part of Krabi province but it’s also close to Trang. The layout of the island is simple: 4km by 2km in dimension with one long beach aptly named Main Beach. There are no roads, no towns, and certainly no 7-Elevens. Jungle makes up the interior of the island and while it’s possible to hike to viewpoints and go bird-watching, most people come for the beach alone.

What the island offers travelers is the very definition of a “beach postcard”: soft golden sand, clear emerald waters, a colorful coral reef, hornbills flying overhead and photogenic views of nearby islets. For those wanting to avoid the more commercialised islands in Thailand, Koh Ngai is ideal. You can choose between a dozen or so comfortable resorts, which all have their own restaurants, and still enjoy small crowds and a remote island atmosphere.

The coral reef on the island’s fringes is just a short swim away from shore, so snorkeling and kayaking are popular activities. During our visit, school kids were on a field trip learning all about the coral reef and the importance of sustainability (which was cool). Hornbills are the most famous bird species you’ll find here and you’ll often see them perched high up in trees or flying over the beach.

For us as a couple, Koh Ngai made for a refreshing and romantic break. We simply enjoyed relaxing days by the beach - sunbathing and swimming - and the only thing on the agenda at night was watching the sunset and having a few drinks at the rustic beach bars. It’s also well suited for families with young kids, as the waters are shallow at high tide.

Koh Ngai - Emerald Waters — *Crystal-clear waters of Koh Ngai*

Koh Ngai - Beach Run — *Man running on Main Beach in the morning*

Our Magical Experience in Koh Ngai

As already mentioned, we visited Koh Ngai in the month of February which seemed to hit the sweet spot in terms of weather. We couldn’t have asked for better conditions: a smooth speedboat ride there, blue skies everyday and calm waters at the beach. Our route took us from Koh Phi Phi to Koh Lanta and then to Koh Ngai, with the speedboat ticket purchased in Phi Phi Don.

We still have fond memories of pulling up to Koh Ngai for the first time, it was honestly dreamlike. The beach was pristine, the water was shimmering, longtails glided across the glassy water, and the jungle hills rolled in mesmerising patterns. The photos below don’t capture just how beautiful it was. Every passenger onboard was smiling and couldn’t wait to take the longtail boat to shore.

When we hopped off the longtail with our bags and dipped our feet in the water, it was time to walk along Main Beach to our resort. It was 3pm, so the sun was at it’s strongest, and were not going to lie: we arrived at Thapwarin drenched in sweat. But the scenery along the way kept us inspired, for what turned out to be quiet a long and difficult walk with backpacks. Anyway, when we arrived at Thapwarin and checked in, we were taken through the lush resort grounds to our bungalow. It was at this moment we could take a breath and soak up the paradise surrounding us.

We didn’t have much planned for our four night stay in Koh Ngai. Each day just rolled into the next: we went swimming and snorkeling pretty much every day, took long beach walks at low tide, searched for hornbills hiding in the trees, had naps and massages on the beach, and watched the sunset from a cool little beach bar every night. It literally couldn’t have been a more relaxing experience if we tried. That being said, there was one moment that stood out.

After watching our 3rd sunset from our favorite beach bar, we headed back to the resort and were struck by a “blood moon” casting its glow over the island. We couldn’t believe our luck! It was incredibly beautiful. And (of course) it made for some fantastic photos, especially with the orange/crimson glow lighting up the longtail boats parked up on shore. These are the types of travel moments you never forget.

Since there’s no real supermarkets or convenience stores on the island, you’re forced to eat pretty much every meal at your resort. Luckily for us though, Thapwarin had a wonderful on-site restaurant which looked out over the sea. We had breakfast, lunch and dinner here every day - and while we had a decent sized bill to pay at the end, it was worth it. We enjoyed hanging out at the resort at night, making friends with the other guests and just admiring the views. By the end of four nights, we were thoroughly relaxed and ready to continue our island-hopping trip in the south.

Koh Ngai - Arrival Beach — *Arriving in Koh Ngai*

Koh Ngai - Blood Moon Night — *“Blood moon” glowing over a longtail boat on Koh Ngai*

How to Get to Koh Ngai

The best way to get to Koh Ngai is to incorporate it into your island hopping trip in the Krabi region. Getting here directly from Bangkok is a bit of a mission, and even the alternative route from Pak Meng Pier by Trang Town is difficult. We recommend visiting from Koh Lanta or Koh Phi Phi, after spending a few days on either of those islands (like we did).

From Koh Phi Phi or Koh Lanta

We booked a speedboat ticket from Koh Phi Phi to Koh Ngai, which stopped at Koh Lanta along the way. This was a fantastic option as we enjoyed our stay in Koh Phi Phi, and had already visited Koh Lanta recently, so we were happy to transit through. The boat ride was smooth in February but we have heard that this part of the Andaman Sea can get rough during the rainy season. From memory, the trip from Koh Lanta to Koh Ngai took around 40-60 minutes. Just keep in mind that most speedboats anchor in Koh Ngai and have longtails transport you to the beach.

From the Mainland (Trang)

You can fly to Trang Town from Bangkok, and then take a taxi to Pak Meng Pier for your speedboat to Koh Ngai. We actually did this route in reverse, upon leaving Koh Ngai. However, we wouldn’t recommend it as it was logistically challenging.

First of all, the speedboat from Koh Ngai didn’t take us directly to Pak Meng Pier. What should’ve been a 30 minute trip, turned into a few hours as the boat picked up guests from Koh Kradan with lots of waiting around time. Then, when we finally arrived at the pier, there were no taxis available to take us to Trat Town for our flight to Bangkok. Luckily, we met a very friendly local family who saw us in distress and offered us a ride to the town. So there was a silver lining to the experience!

Important Tips:

Check the Season & Sea-Conditions: Koh Ngai’s dry season runs from November to April, and this is generally considered the best time for sea conditions. From May to October, speedboat services may be reduced or canceled due to bad weather.
Bring Appropriate Luggage: Since the speedboats anchor offshore and passengers get taken to the beach on longtails, it’s a good idea to bring easily transportable luggage. For example, a backpack with shoulder straps is better than a suitcase. Just remember, you might have to bring your own bags to the resort unless they organise a porter for you - so pack light, just in case. You could also wear water proof shoes on the day of arrival and departure, as you’re expected to step off the boat into shallow water.
Time your Arrival: Try to book the earliest possible boat from Koh Lanta. The mid-afternoon sun can get intense and getting to your resort might require a little effort.

Where to Stay: We Recommend Thapwarin Resort

Thapwarin Resort was a place we found on booking.com. It wasn’t recommended to us by anyone but the reviews and photos looked great, so we decided to book it. We paid around 5,000 THB per night - a little more than what we would normally pay for hotels in Thailand but absolutely worth it when you consider the location. The nightly rate at Thapwarin can fluctuate depending on the season and how far out you make the booking, so it’s alway a good idea to book well in advance.

Why We Loved it:

Beachfront Location: Thapwarin is situated at the northern end of the island with direct access to Main Beach. The bungalow we booked was nestled about 100-200 meters back from the shoreline, which provided us our own little oasis in nature. This resort is known for its two palm trees that lean out over the beach, making for classic Koh Ngai photos.
Resort Comfort in a Relaxed Setting: Thapwarin is technically a 3-star resort. It offers much more comfort than a budget bungalow (for example) but not as many luxury facilities as a 5-star resort. The bungalows are spacious, the beds are comfortable and the food at the restaurant is top notch. One key thing to remember is to book a room with air-conditioning, as nights on Koh Ngai can still feel hot and humid. Some of the cheaper rooms only have fans, and from our experience, a fan doesn’t quite cut it in the Thailand heat.
Fair Price: The value for money at Thapwarin is superb. If you book your bungalow several weeks in advance, chances are you’ll get a great price. Just ensure that you keep a running tally of your restaurant bill, as that can shock you at checkout. To save money on food, you can try to eat modestly at the restaurant or pack some fruit and snacks in Koh Lanta beforehand.

Koh Ngai - Thapwarin Bungalows — *Beautiful bungalows at Thapwarin*

Koh Ngai - Thapwarin Greenery — *Serene natural setting of Thapwarin Resort*

Koh Ngai - Thapwarin Restaurant — *Kat enjoying her time at Thapwarin restaurant*

8 Best Things To Do in Koh Ngai

1. Sunbathing & Swimming

Koh Ngai is tailor-made for beach relaxation, and sunbathing and swimming are two activities that’ll be part of your daily routine. When the tide goes out, there’s plenty of room to stretch out a towel and get some vitamin D. And when the tide comes in, it goes all the way to the resort’s doorstep with shallow pools perfect for swimming. We were genuinely amazed by the water clarity in Koh Ngai and it was an idyllic temperature. Limiting your sun exposure to 2-3 hours per day is wise. Cam learnt the hard way and got a nice pink sunburn on his first day on the island.

Koh Ngai - Cam Swimming — *Cam swimming in Koh Ngai*

Koh Ngai - Iconic Palm Tree — *Iconic palm tree at Thapwarin Resort*

2. Spotting Hornbills in the Trees

One of the most unique aspects of Koh Ngai is getting the chance to see hornbills. The island is home to the Oriental Pied Hornbill, a beautiful black and white bird with a yellow bill and large casque helmet. During our daily beach walks, we would often find them hiding in the tree canopies and occasionally flying over head. You don’t need to take a hike deep into the jungle to spot them, as they often forage for fruit and insects near the beachfront resort area.

Koh Ngai - Hornbill — *Hornbills on Koh Ngai*

3. Beach Walks

With Thapwarin sitting at the northern end of the beach, we would take a walk to the southern end and back almost everyday. It was a great way to get some exercise while discovering different viewpoints of the surrounding islands, seeing what the other resorts offered and finding magical photo-ops. The tide retreats quite far back during low tide, so there’s plenty of space for walking.

Koh Ngai - Beach Walks — *Kat enjoying a beach walk on Koh Ngai*

Koh Ngai - Low Tide — *Low tide at Koh Ngai*

4. Beach Bars & Sunset Drinks

We stumbled across a little rustic, make-shift bar along Main Beach and chose to watch the sunset here every night. It offered nothing more than plastic chairs, tree umbrellas, cold beers and stunning views of the three iconic islets surrounding Koh Ngai. The sunsets here were truly spectacular!

Koh Ngai - Beer — *Enjoying a Leo beer on Koh Ngai*

Koh Ngai - Beach Bar Sunset — *Cool rustic beach bar in Koh Ngai*

5. Kayaking

If you’re looking for something more adventurous to do in Koh Ngai, kayaking is a fantastic option. Most of the resorts, including Thapwarin, provide kayak rentals. At high tide, you can paddle out on the calm water and see the island from the same vantage point as when you first arrived. You can also kayak to the edges of the island, and explore hidden bays and coastlines.

6. Snorkeling

The coral reef that hugs the fringes of Koh Ngai is reached via a short swim from shore. While it’s not the most colorful and vibrant reef in all of Thailand, it still offers excellent snorkeling considering how close it is from the beachfront resorts. The spots in front of Thapwarin, Thanya and Kaimuk Thong resorts are all considered great options for snorkeling.

7. Day Trip to Nearby Koh Kradan

A day trip to Koh Kradan, voted the world’s best beach in 2023 by the World Beach Guide, is an absolute must-do. Unfortunately, all the longtail boats were fully booked when we wanted to go. Basing yourself in Koh Ngai and taking a day trip is preferable to staying overnight, since this island is extremely stripped back with limited electricity and facilities. However, it does offer a better coral reef, a perfectly untouched beach and even fewer people (believe it or not). If you’re worried about availability, get in touch with your resort to book the tour or private longtail charter before you go.

8. Beach-Side Massage

About half way down Main Beach you’ll find a basic open-air massage “parlour”. Kat indulged in a massage two or three times during our stay in Koh Ngai and high recommends it. Having the sea breeze and sound of the tide wash over you while you get a massage only adds to the relaxation.

Koh Ngai - Massage — *Kat getting a massage on Koh Ngai*

When to Visit Koh Ngai

November to April is considered the dry season in Koh Ngai, but to be safe we’d recommend visiting between December and March. Many resorts close their doors from May to October due to rough seas and limited boat services. If you’re planning on going in the peak rainy season, it’s best to contact the resort directly to ensure they are open and boats are available for transportation.

Our timing in February, honestly, couldn’t have been better. We enjoyed clear blue skies, little to no wind, and warm calm water. If you can aim for December, January or February chances are you’ll hit perfect beach conditions. If you can only go in November or April, there’ll be a higher risk or rain. But don’t let that deter you because a few tropical downpours only adds to the charm of the island.

*Kat enjoying the stunning views at Koh Ngai*

Tips for Visiting Koh Ngai

Bring Cash/Be Prepared for Limited Facilities: There are no ATMs on the island and most transactions are done with cash (paying for massages, for example). That being said, Thapwarin did accept card payment for our restaurant bill. Take out some extra cash and buy everything you need in Koh Lanta before arriving.
Embrace the Slow Pace: Koh Ngai isn’t a party or adventure island. It’s suitable for travelers who simply want to relax and unwind in a beautiful beach environment. We recommend staying for at least three or four nights to really immerse yourself in “island mode”. If you’re looking for nightlife we suggest heading to Koh Phangan or Koh Phi Phi instead, and if you’re wanting more adventurous things to do Koh Chang or Koh Samui are always solid options.
Be Mindful of the Reef & Wildlife: Try not to step on or damage any coral (wear water-shoes if needed), keep a safe distance from the hornbills and birds, and be gentle in nature.
Keep the Sand Out of Your Room: Like any beach, sand tends to get into everything. Make sure you clean your bags, flip flops, etc. before coming back to your room. If you’re staying at Thapwarin, take advantage of their water cups outside the room to clean your feet and gear.
Live in the Moment: As travel bloggers, we took many photos during our time in Koh Ngai but also consciously chose moments to disconnect from our phones and live in the moment. Koh Ngai is the type of place where you’ll want to shut out the outside world and soak up paradise!

Koh Ngai - Cleaning Feet — *Kat cleaning her feet before entering the bungalow*

Koh Ngai Travel Guide: Thailand's Hidden Island Paradise