We’ve taken a few motorbike adventures in Southeast Asia but nothing compares to the Mae Hong Son Loop. This 600 kilometer road trip starts and ends in Chiang Mai, and takes you through the off-beat mountainous landscapes of Northern Thailand - with endless hairpin turns, misty valleys, remote villages and cultural gems to experience along the way.

Some travelers go slow and complete the loop in 7-10 days, but most find that 5 days is plenty of time. There’s a few different detours to choose from, which allows you to customize the trip to your specific interests. That’s how we approached the Mae Hong Son Loop, picking destinations that we really wanted to see such as Pai, Ban Rak Thai and Doi Inthanon.

The more traditional route goes clockwise, south to Mae Sariang at first and then looping around to Mae Hong Son Town, Pai and back to Chiang Mai. For many, this makes the most logistical sense as the riding slowly builds in intensity. However, we went counterclockwise, kicking off with a bang in Pai and tackling the 762 curves of Highway 1095 mountain pass.

There’s over 1,800 curves to maneuver on the Mae Hong Son Loop, with some being gentle bends and others gnarly switchbacks. Although that might sound scary, you should know that the roads are in great condition. As long as you keep your distance from vehicles, be patient with overtaking and stop for regular breaks, you’ll have a really comfortable journey.

Mae Hong Son Loop - Map — *Map of our Mae Hong Son Loop*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Chiang Mai to Pai — *Mae Hong Son Loop*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Great Roads — *Mae Hong Son Loop*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Ban Rak Thai Sign — *Ban Rak Thai*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Motorbike Road Trip — *Mae Hong Son Loop*

Mae Hong Son Loop: The Perfect 5-Day Plan

Day 1: Chiang Mai to Pai (The 762 Curves)

Like all Mae Hong Son adventures, our trip started in Chiang Mai with a few days of relaxation and importantly motorbike preparation. We checked out a few different rental shops and settled on a little local place called Toon’s Bike Rental & Tours (who were awesome by the way). We opted for two 300cc automatic bikes, as Cam’s parents were coming along for the ride, and booked four nights accommodation in advance: two nights in Pai, one night just outside of Ban Rak Thai and another in Mae Chaem district.

It’s worth spending at least two or three nights in Chiang Mai before you set off on the Mae Hong Son Loop because this city is incredible - definitely one of our favorite places in Thailand. Once you’ve sorted a motorbike and packed your bags, it’ll be time to leave the city limits on Highway 107 before turning onto the iconic Highway 1095. Just keep in mind that the city sprawls out for a while and the traffic can build up on the outskirts. If you leave early in the morning though, you should have a clear run through.

Before you know it the urban landscape transforms into quiet countryside and you start to ascend. Then you encounter Highway 1095, a “baptism of fire”. Trucks swing wide around corners, motorbikes overtake constantly and cars race by. The 762 curves required so much concentration that we needed a really long break at the top. However, once we headed downhill, things changed. The traffic all but disappeared, the road opened up, the Pai valley came into view and it honestly felt like skiing on powder (not ice).

The distance from Chiang Mai to Pai is only 130 kilometers but it takes a good 4-5 hours depending on how many stops you take. And you will want to stop because there’s some beautiful viewpoints along the way. We arrived in Pai a bit jaded but full of adrenaline, knowing that we had just conquered one of the most legendary roads in all of Thailand.

Mae Hong Son Loop - Leaving Chiang Mai — *Leaving Chiang Mai*

Mae Hong Son Loop - 762 Curves of Highway 1095 — *762 curves of Highway 1095*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Stretching Legs — *Stretching our legs at the top*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Highway 1095 Viewpoint — *Highway 1095*

Day 2: Spend the Full Day in Pai

Pai made for a wonderful rest-stop for two nights. On our free day here, Cam decided he needed to stretch his legs and burn some calories after gorging on too much Thai food on previous days. He found a hike to a place called Mae Yen Waterfall that looked pretty cool. It was meant to take two hours each way but after we wandered through the jungle for two hours, crossing the river multiple times, we still had two hours left.

So we all agreed to turn back. The information online underestimates just how long this waterfall hike takes and (in hindsight) we wished we visited Pai Canyon instead. We still enjoyed hanging out in Pai at night though: eating delicious food, getting massages and soaking up the relaxed atmosphere. Pai is known for its hippie, bohemian vibe after all.

There’s lots of ways to unwind in Pai. You can find great coffee, take walks by the rivers or rice paddies, try the street food, and have a drink or two at the funky little bars. If your body is still sore from the ride, you can always choose something more restorative such as a yoga class or hot springs. We loved our stay at Pai Smilehouse: a bungalow hotel with hammocks, friendly staff and a short walk (over a bamboo bridge) to the night market.

Mae Hong Son Loop - Pai Smilehouse — *Pai Smilehouse*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Mae Yen Waterfall Hike — *Mae Yen Waterfall Hike*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Pai Walking Street Night Market — *Pai*

Day 3: Ban Rak Thai & Sang Poy Cottage

Leaving Pai early will give you the opportunity of arriving in Ban Rak Thai in time for lunch. The road leads you northwest on Highway 1095 for just over two hours, until you reach the turn off point for Route 4001 - a narrow stretch that takes an hour to head up via motorbike. The scenery on this little detour is unique: you’ll ride past lush hills, tea plantations and a few settlements dotted across the land. While the road is fully paved, there’s still a few potholes to be wary of as you wind your way to Ban Rak Thai.

Ban Rak Thai is set beside a reservoir lake near the Myanmar border and is known as the “Thai loving village” - a town that was founded by Yunnanese soldiers who sought refuge in Thailand during the Communist takeover of China. Chinese influences can be seen everywhere here, from the clay houses to the tea shops, food and language. We spent the afternoon at Ban Rak Thai enjoying a typical set-menu lunch, wandering around the lake and taking photos. A day trip works well, as accommodation is extremely limited and often gets booked out months in advance.

After spending a few hours in Ban Rak Thai, we retraced our steps back on Route 4001 and linked back up with Highway 1095 until we reached Sang Poy Cottage: our accommodation of choice for the third night on the Mae Hong Son Loop. Sang Poy Cottage is a boutique 4-star hotel surrounded by rice fields and rolling hills. The teak cottages here are stunning, and make for a luxurious and comfortable stay before continuing your ride south.

Mae Hong Son Loop - Lunch at Ban Rak Thai — *Lunch at Ban Rak Thai*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Ban Rak Thai — *Ban Rak Thai*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Visiting Ban Rak Thai — *Ban Rak Thai*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Sang Poy Cottage — *Sang Poy Cottage*

Day 4: Off the Beaten Track on Route 1263

Our fourth day started with breakfast at Sang Poy Cottage before we mentally prepared for our longest ride yet: over four hours to Mae Chaem. If you’d like to mix things up in the morning, you could head to the Su Tong Pae Bridge first which is just a 15 minute walk from Sang Poy Cottage. As you continue south, this time on Highway 108, you’ll reach Mae Hong Son Town where you can stop for an early lunch and browse through the shops.

One shop that’s worth checking out is Padonc Shop, run by a friendly local chap who sells little keepsakes for your Mae Hong Son Loop trip such as t-shirts and stickers. We all bought a few shirts, stickers and gifts, and then rode to Khun Yuam and took the turn off onto Route 1263 - skipping the southern road to Mae Sariang that’s part of the full Mae Hong Son Loop.

Since we wanted to stay for two nights in Pai, we had to cut our loop short somewhere. So we decided to take the Route 1263 turn off at Khun Yuam, a road that diverted us east to Mae Chaem and eventually linked up with Doi Inthanon National Park and Chiang Mai. We didn’t have big expectations for Route 1263 but it turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. We rode past rice fields, sweeping valleys and traditional villages, in a section of the Mae Hong Son Loop that most travelers never get to experience.

Our final night was spent at Ban Rai Jai Chaem Homestay in Mae Chaem district. The ride there, as we connected with Highway 1088, was awesome but it wasn’t until we went to bed that we realized how rural the setting was. At 5am, we were woken up by a cacophony of animal sounds coming from lizards, snails, frogs, birds, cats, cows and roosters. At first, it was a little annoying to lose a few hours of sleep. Then we all just started laughing uncontrollably: we’d never heard so many animals making so many noises.

Mae Hong Son Loop - T Shirt — *Mae Hong Son Loop T-Shirt*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Traditional Villages — *Traditional villages*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Route 1263 Shortcut — *Route 1263*

Mae Hong Son Loop - 5 Day Itinerary — *Route 1263*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Mae Chaem Homestay — *Ban Rai Jai Chaem Homestay*

Day 5: Doi Inthanon & Back to Chiang Mai

Before we returned to Chiang Mai, we decided to visit one final attraction and that was Doi Inthanon or specifically the King & Queen Pagoda. We left early in the morning, so there was lots of fog still hovering around which added to the mystique of the temples. Eventually we connected up with Highway 108 and drove a further 100 kilometers to Chiang Mai. We were pretty exhausted as we returned to our hotel, but the memories we made were simply priceless. We stayed for a few more nights in Chiang Mai - eating, relaxing and sightseeing - before flying back to Bangkok.

Mae Hong Son Loop - Doi Inthanon — *King & Queen Pagoda*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Buddhist Monks — *Monks at Doi Inthanon*

Mae Hong Son Loop - Back in Chiang Mai — *Relaxing back in Chiang Mai*

FAQs for the Mae Hong Son Loop

Is 5 days better than 4 days?

Five days is much better than 4 days in our opinion, as it allows you to spend more time at the destinations rather than being stuck on the bike for too long. We aimed for a maximum of 3-4 hours of riding per day, which (remember) is still quite a lot considering the concentration and effort it takes to tackle the winding roads. The more time you give yourself, the more opportunity you’ll have to explore waterfalls, tribe villages, temples, markets and the endless hidden gems of the Mae Hong Son Loop.

How difficult is the riding and is it safe?

The most difficult part of the Mae Hong Son Loop is the Highway 1095 mountain pass from Chiang Mai to Pai, due to the traffic and number of curves. Cam considers himself an intermediate rider and had to really focus in for the ride. The main thing to watch out for are the trucks - be sure to wear a helmet, keep your distance and only ride during daylight hours.

Mae Hong Son Loop - Route 4001 — *Mae Hong Son Loop*

Do you need an International Motorbike Licence?

Technically, you do need a motorbike licence and International Driving Permit to go with it. However, rental shops rarely ask and police checks are more common on the outskirts of Chiang Mai rather than on the loop itself. The biggest risk comes from insurance, as many providers won’t cover you (if you have an accident) unless you have a motorbike licence. How you manage this situation is up to you, but we would recommend following the law. As a side note, remember to take a video of your motorbike before you go as this avoids any false damage claims by the rental shop.

Mae Hong Son Loop - Best Time to Visit — *Mae Hong Son Loop*

What should you pack for the Mae Hong Son Loop?

We recommend staying at the same hotel in Chiang Mai either side of your Mae Hong Son Loop so you can leave your big bags there. This way you can just bring a small day bag with the essentials and pack any other items you need in the bike’s compartments. As a general rule, you want to pack as light as possible. Although, you’ll still need a few jackets and jumpers for the cooler climate of Ban Rak Thai and Doi Inthanon National Park.

Mae Hong Son Loop - Which Motorbike to Rent — *Mae Hong Son Loop*

When’s the best time to do the Mae Hong Son Loop?

The best time to do the Mae Hong Son Loop is from the start of November to the end of January, during Northern Thailand’s cool season, which offers clear skies, cooler temperatures and superb visibility. We rode the loop in December and honestly couldn’t fault the weather, it was perfect. Another good time to go, believe it or not, is during the rainy or “green” season. The lush landscapes can make the riding much more picturesque. One period to avoid though is the burning season (February to April): not only is the smog bad for your health, but it interrupts those mountain views.

What’s the main highlight of the Mae Hong Son Loop?

There’s no doubt in our mind that the riding itself is the highlight of the Mae Hong Son Loop, and by riding we don’t just mean the scenery. It was the people we met along the way that made the journey extra special - whether it was traditional villagers, owners of little roadside restaurants or groups of Thai bikers having a blast exploring a corner of their own country.

Mae Hong Son Loop - Meeting People — *Mae Hong Son Loop*

Mae Hong Son Loop: The Ultimate 5-Day Motorbike Itinerary