Ban Rak Thai: Thailand's Beautiful Chinese Tea Village
Ban Rak Thai is a small village nestled right by the border of Myanmar in Northern Thailand. It sits roughly 1,800 meters above sea level surrounded by rolling hills, tea plantations, and a calm reservoir that makes for misty morning boat rides during the cooler dry season (November to February).
The village was founded by soldiers from the Yunnan province of China, who left their country during the brutal and bloody communist takeover of the mid-20th century. The soldiers were forced to flee, crossing the border into Myanmar, and eventually landing in the north of Thailand.
They sought refuge and Thailand welcomed them in, and in return the refugees named the village “Ban Rak Thai” which means “Thai Loving Village”. Much of the architecture, food, language and customs were kept alive from China, but the new settlers also integrated well into Thai society.
Ban Rak Thai
Ban Rak Thai
Why Travelers Love Ban Rak Thai
There’s not a lot to do in Ban Rak Thai apart from slowing down and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere on offer. You don’t really come here to tick off a bunch of attractions, instead the village itself is the attraction. You’ll find cute homestays wrapped around the lake, red lanterns hanging down from the wooden houses, and tea fields arranged in neat rows.
It’s like traveling back to the “China of old” mixed with the little quirks you come to expect in Thailand - where you can simply disconnect from the world and breathe in the fresh mountain air. Most international travelers don’t bother venturing this far north but many Thai travelers do. And from our experience, places popular with the locals are often the best spots.
Ban Rak Thai
Ban Rak Thai
Ban Rak Thai
What to See & Do in Ban Rak Thai
Eat at a Traditional Yunnanese Restaurant
For some reason we decided to skip breakfast before heading to Ban Rak Thai and so by the time we arrived we were ravenous. The ride from our hotel at Sang Poy Cottage took an hour - winding through roads that gradually got higher, more mountainous and more off-the-beaten-track.
We walked straight to a restaurant by the lake and proceeded to order a banquet. This included a few different soups and salads, bao buns, and a slow-cooked leg of pork. The pork was incredibly tender but what surprised us was its flavor: very reminiscent of the Colonel’s famous chicken recipe (KFC). We did wonder if this is where he pinched the recipe from.
We ordered a set menu, which is a popular way of having lunch or dinner at the main restaurants of Ban Rak Thai. In general, Yunnanese cuisine is hearty and warms you up from the inside out - perfect for that cooler mountain climate. Combined with tea, it all goes down a treat.
Yunnanese cuisine
Have a Coffee at Leewine Cafe
Perhaps the most “Instagrammable” spot in Ban Rak Thai is a cafe called Leewine Coffee, with windows that open out over the lake. You can choose between indoor or outdoor seating - either of which work well for admiring the misty views and Chinese wooden boats drifting along the lake.
Leewine Coffee
Matcha tea in Ban Rak Thai
Do a Full Loop of the Scenic Lake
A walking path in Ban Rak Thai loops around the lake taking you past local homes, guesthouses, cafes and some pretty cool viewpoints. One lookout point in particular is worth checking out - situated right by Lee Wine Ruk Thai Resort with its famous yellow mud-brick cottages and tea fields.
Lake walks
Lookout platform
Lookout platform
Take a Boat Ride on the Lake at Sunrise
If you can find some nice accommodation in Ban Rak Thai grab it, because the next morning will give you the opportunity to take a boat ride at sunrise. Hopefully, you’ll be blessed with perfect conditions - a little bit of mist floating around where the sun can start streaming through.
Sunrise boat ride
Visit Lee Wine Ruk Thai Resort
The next best thing to staying overnight in Lee Wine Ruk Thai Resort is visiting. You can do so for a small entry fee of 50 THB. This gives you the ability to see the famous cottages, tea fields and viewpoints that await higher up - obviously one of the best places in Ban Rak Thai to take photos.
Lee Wine Ruk Thai Resort
Join a Traditional Tea Tasting
Tea tastings are a great way to immerse yourself in the Yunnanese culture of Ban Rak Thai. This part of Thailand is known for its tea - especially Oolong tea which tends to thrive in the cool mountain climate. There’s also green and jasmine tea which are popular options if you don’t like Oolong.
Where to Stay in Ban Rak Thai
Accommodation in Ban Rak Thai can be tricky for two reasons. Firstly, there’s limited availability and by this we mean strictly only 20-30 options within the village itself. Secondly, it gets booked out months in advance, particularly during the peak season of November to February. For this reason, we stayed at Sang Poy Cottage an hour outside of the village.
Lee Wine Ruk Thai Resort
Sang Poy Cottage
Sang Poy Cottage
How to Get to Ban Rak Thai
From Pai
Pai is certainly a better option for a Ban Rak Thai day trip than Chiang Mai, however it can still take up to 3 hours by motorbike. You’ll head west on Highway 1095 before reaching a turn-off north onto Route 4001 - the narrow road that weaves through hills and tea fields. Importantly, this final stretch is paved but there’s still the odd pothole to look out for.
Pai
From Mae Hong Son Town
Mae Hong Son Town is an even more viable option than Pai for a day trip to Ban Rak Thai. It’s only about 60-90 minutes by motorbike and takes you north on Route 108, before connecting with Highway 1095 and detouring up Route 4001. Mae Hong Son Town offers a much more local vibe than Pai - with plenty of temples, markets and sights to see in the countryside.
Entering Ban Rak Thai
Recommended Route: Mae Hong Son Loop
We actually recommend visiting Ban Rak Thai as part of a motorbike journey called the Mae Hong Son Loop, typically done in 4 or 5 days from Chiang Mai. The Mae Hong Son Loop is such an incredible experience: hair-pin turns, mountain viewpoints, and endless cultural gems to discover.
Read more: Mae Hong Son Loop: The Ultimate 5-Day Motorbike Itinerary
Mae Hong Son Loop
Mae Hong Son Loop
Best Time to Visit Ban Rak Thai
The ideal period to visit Ban Rak Thai is November to March, when you have the best chance to see mist on the lake. Your days will be relatively warm, but will cool down significantly at night and in the morning. That’s not to say you can’t visit in the rainy season though. The rain brings about lush scenery, and it’s often easier to find nice accommodation then.
Final Thoughts on Ban Rak Thai
Ban Rak Thai is worth visiting despite it being a little touristy these days. The history and traditions of the village are real, and there’s many ways to relax and soak up the atmosphere. If you’re planning your trip to the north, be sure to read our Chiang Mai travel guide which is a good starting point.
