Surin Islands Travel Guide: Snorkeling & Moken Village Adventure
Our island-hopping trips in Thailand have taken us to some pretty amazing places, from Koh Lipe in the far south to Koh Kood in the far east, but none felt as remote as the Surin Islands. Situated miles from the mainland, close to the maritime border of Myanmar, this protected archipelago offers travelers a true adventure: rugged beaches, world-class snorkeling and sea gypsy communities that add a touch of culture to every visit.
The untouched beauty of the Surin Islands comes at a cost though: it’s a long journey, especially from Phuket. The 4-hour travel time (each way) puts most people off taking a day trip, which is totally understandable in our opinion. You’ll get picked up early, dropped off late at night, and be exhausted once your head hits the pillow. But if you can handle that, you’re in for a real treat!
Unique rock formations at the Surin Islands
Untouched shores of the Surin Islands
Moken village
Surin Islands
Where Are the Surin Islands?
The Surin Islands, otherwise known as Mu Ko Surin National Park, sit roughly 60 km off the coast of Phang Nga province in the Andaman Sea. The small archipelago consists of five main islands, with the two biggest being Koh Surin Nuea (North) and Koh Surin Tai (South). They’re both home to thriving coral reefs, clear emerald waters and white sand beaches, but it’s on Koh Surin Tai where you’ll find the unique Moken village settlement.
Since the islands are closer to Myanmar than they are to Phuket, getting there requires a bit of an effort. However, it’s this distance that keeps the Surin Islands so protected and pristine. There are no luxury resorts to speak of, no party beaches, and no real infrastructure apart from simple ranger stations and tented areas on Koh Surin Nuea. Because of this barrier to entry, you’ll often be snorkelling in spots with only a couple of other boats around you, whereas the Similan Islands can feel quite crowded in comparison.
Surin Islands
What the Surin Islands Offer Visitors
Wild Beaches
The beaches of the Surin Islands are undeniably beautiful: defined by their powdery white sand, emerald-green waters and lush rainforest backdrop. Many of the beaches are nestled in sheltered bays, such as Mai Ngam Beach and Chong Khad Bay, creating shallow waters perfect for swimming and snorkeling. When you first step on shore, you get the feeling that you’re in the middle of nowhere - which is one sensation we’re always chasing in Thailand!
Beaches of the Surin Islands
Beaches of the Surin Islands
World-Class Snorkeling & Diving
The main attraction of the Surin Islands are the colorful coral reefs scattered throughout the marine park, widely considered the healthiest in all of Thailand, making it a playground for both snorkelers and divers. Since many of the reefs are tucked away in sheltered bays, the snorkeling opportunities for beginners are endless - it’s common to sea schools of clownfish and even sea turtles in the shallow waters close to the beach. If you’re an advanced diver, the Surin Islands also cater to you with dramatic drop-offs, deep pinnacles and the chance to see manta rays.
Snorkeling
The Moken Sea Gypsy Village
One of the most interesting aspects of visiting the Surin Islands is getting the opportunity to learn about the Moken people. They’re a sea gypsy community who have lived in the Mergui archipelago of Myanmar and the islands along Thailand’s Andaman coast for generations. The Moken people have an incredibly unique way of life, intertwined with the ocean, traditionally living on hand-built boats and relying on their extraordinary free-diving skills to forage from the sea.
Moken village
Moken village
Eco-Protections and Restrictions
Being a national marine park means the Surin Islands have strict regulations in place, in order to protect its fragile ecosystem. The most notable, and important, for travelers is the seasonal closure - running from mid-May to mid-October - giving the reefs a six month window to recover every year. Additionally, no private development is allowed, visitor numbers are capped, and there’s a ban on plastic. These rules ensure the Surin Islands remain a sustainable destination, limiting some of the negative impacts of tourism.
Emerald waters of the Surin Islands
How to Visit the Surin Islands
Day Trips
Day trips are the most popular way to explore the Surin Islands, with tours usually departing from Phuket or Khao Lak. There’s a few different tour providers to choose from but they all tend to follow a similar itinerary: shuttle van transfer to the pier, speedboat transport to the islands, a few snorkeling stops, lunch at a beach, and a visit to the Moken village. If you’re based in Phuket, just expect a much longer journey, one that’s still doable if you have the right attitude and prepare yourself for a full day. Here are some of the best day tour options:
Liveaboard Adventures
To experience the Surin Islands in a slower, more deliberate fashion, liveaboard trips are a fantastic option. These itineraries are often combined with other nearby destinations, such as the Similan Islands, on 4-5 night all-inclusive tours. You’ll get the chance to go snorkeling and diving at sunrise and sunset, explore hidden bays that most tourists never see, and gaze up at the stars without any light pollution. Most liveaboard tours depart from Khao Lak, and are perfect for photographers, underwater enthusiasts, or anyone who wants a deeper connection with nature.
Camping in the Surin Islands
Camping is definitely the best way to immerse yourself in the natural beauty of the Surin Islands, with national park tents and simple bungalows available on Koh Surin Nuea. While it’s possible to arrange your stay independently, the easiest option is to book through a travel company who can organise your transfers, permits, accommodation and daily snorkeling activities all in one package. The facilities are basic, but there’s no better feeling than waking up to the sound of the sea gently lapping on shore on completely empty beaches!
Here’s a camping trip that might pique your interest: Phuket or Khao Lak: Surin Islands 3 Day - 2 Night Snorkeling Tour
Our Experience in the Surin Islands
We booked our Surin Islands day tour with Love Andaman, a company we’ve used several times now in Phuket. We find their tours to be well-organized, environmentally friendly and to have great staff, so it was the obvious choice for this adventure.
Early Morning Pick-Up
We set our alarms for 5:30 AM, waiting for a shuttle van to collect us from our hotel in Phuket Old Town. It took us almost 2 hours to get to Thap Lamu Pier, with the van stopping several times to pick up other guests. Kat slept through most of the journey but Cam was too excited for the day ahead, and just enjoyed watching Phuket slowly wake up out the window.
When we arrived at Thap Lamu Pier, where the Love Andaman headquarters are located, we were guided into the check-in area. Staff provided us with wristbands, a light breakfast and a detailed overview of what to expect on the tour: snorkeling stops, etiquette at the Moken village, safety instructions, and more. Then, it was time to board the boat.
The Long Speedboat Journey
After boarding the speedboat, we settled into the 2-hour journey across the open sea with about 30 other guests onboard. Luckily, the ride was smooth and calm throughout, as we went in February, one of the best months for sea conditions in the Andaman. However, it still felt arduously long and we had sore bums by the time we arrived!
Snorkeling at Nemo Gulf
The first stop of the day was Nemo Gulf, a bay known for its schools of clownfish, ergo the name “Nemo”. The snorkeling here was wonderful: we saw many clownfish and bright corals, and enjoyed swimming in warm, crystal-clear waters. The Love Andaman guides equip you with snorkeling gear and life-jackets to float, but they’ll let you take your life-jacket off if you’re a competent swimmer (which was the case for Cam).
Snorkeling at the Surin Islands
Relaxing at Twin Beach
We continued to Twin Beach, located on Koh Surin Nuea. Two crescent-shaped beaches are connected together by a narrow sandbar - making for great swimming, photo and relaxation opportunities. What we loved most about Twin Beach was the rock formation that almost resembled a human heart. The beach was rugged, beautiful and one of the most unique we’ve seen in Thailand.
Twin Beach
Relaxing at Twin Beach
Wandering Around the Moken Village
Next up was the Moken village, the absolute highlight of the tour for us. We learned all about their history and heritage: how they migrated between islands in traditional “kabang” houseboats, how they foraged for seafood by freediving, and more. Sadly, the Moken people of the Surin Islands had their settlements destroyed during the 2004 tsunami - so they were forced to join two villages together and move permanently to Koh Surin Tai.
As we wandered around the sandy pathways of the village, we admired their stilted wooden huts, saw children dressed in traditional clothing and wearing “thanaka” face coloring, and bought a few handmade bracelets and necklaces - keepsakes we still have at home today that always remind us of this special experience.
Buying local crafts at the Moken village
Moken village
Moken village
Beachside Buffet Lunch
Around midday, we had lunch on the beach. It’s the typical spread for island tours in Thailand, nothing out of the ordinary but enough nourishment to keep you going. Our buffet lunch included fried chicken, stir-fries, curries, fresh fruit and cold drinks. It was nice to take a break under the shade of trees before the afternoon snorkeling session.
Mae Yai Bay & Tao Bay Snorkeling
The final activity of the day was snorkeling at Mae Yai Bay and Tao Bay, two spots in the Surin Islands known for their colorful coral reefs and underwater visibility stretching as far as 30 meters in front of you. We enjoyed floating above the coral gardens, spotting parrotfish and just soaking up the views from the boat.
The Exhausting Journey Back
After our final snorkeling session, it was time to say goodbye to the Surin Islands and head back to Thap Lamu Pier, arriving back during the sunset. The return boat ride felt like it dragged on forever and we were certainly glad to see land once we arrived back at the pier. There was a lot of fluffing around at the Love Andaman headquarters, organising guests into different vans, and so we started the van trip back later than expected.
In the end, since we were the last ones to be dropped off in the Old Town, we arrived back at our hotel at 9:00 PM. It was a massive day of travel, and we were absolutely knackered, but it was worth it. We now understand why travelers base themselves in Khao Lak for both the Surin and Similan Islands: that final van ride back to Phuket is the straw that breaks the camels back!
Relaxing on the boat
Beach swims at the Surin Islands
Tips for Visiting the Surin Islands
1. Book With a Reputable Company
We highly recommend Love Andaman for day trips from Phuket or Khao Lak. We’ve booked with them on numerous occasions now and found them to be well-organised, environmentally conscious and are quick to resolve any issues when they arise.
Love Andaman crew
2. Base Yourself in Khao Lak for Easier Access
In hindsight, we would’ve based ourselves in Khao Lak for our Surin Islands day trip - it reduces the travel time significantly and would probably make for a much more enjoyable day. We were so tired from our tour that we barely left the hotel the next day. But it’s still doable if you’re feeling adventurous and have energy to burn.
3. Visit Between December - April
The Surin Islands are open to visitors from mid-October to mid-May. But the ideal time to experience them is between December and April, when the sea conditions are calm, the weather is sunny and the underwater visibility is at its clearest. We’ve heard some harrowing stories of people doing the Surin Islands tour in rough sea conditions, making the 2-hour boat ride much longer and more uncomfortable. So ensure you pick the best weather window.
Surin Islands in February
4. Pack a Day Bag with the Essentials
Pack a small day bag with all the essentials for a boat trip: reef-safe sunscreen, a reusable water bottle, a hat and sunglasses, and a waterproof bag to protect your devices. You could also bring a GoPro or snorkel-friendly camera if you plan on capturing the underwater scenery. Definitely bring some cash for the Moken village. They rely heavily on tourism for their survival and a few small purchases can go a long way.
5. Be Eco-Friendly & Respectful
Don’t step on/touch any of the coral and don’t feed the fish, as this can disrupt the fragile ecosystem. Be sure to pack out what you pack in and leave the islands exactly how you found them. Most importantly, walk through the Moken village with respect - this is their home after all, not just a tourist attraction.
Moken village
Final Thoughts on the Surin Islands
The Surin Islands are incredible and absolutely worth visiting in our opinion, even from Phuket. To take your experience to the next level, we recommend basing yourself in Khao Lak or embarking on a liveaboard or camping trip where you can explore the marine park slowly. If you’re based in Phuket and want to visit a similar island paradise, with a shorter travel time, then the Similan Islands are the natural choice.
You can read all about them here: Similan Islands from Phuket: The Ultimate Day Trip Guide.
Emerald waters of the Surin Islands
